Japan Town

The Bureau covers stories of interest to people living and…

Long referred to by expats in Ho Chi Minh City as the ghetto, this enclave in the centre of town offers a small taste of Japan in Vietnam

words: MATTHEW COWAN | photos: OLGA ROZENBAJGIER

It’s the stuff of B-grade Hollywood martial arts films from the 80s — a Japanese enclave in the heart of a heaving city in the Far East with dark alleyways lit by flickering neon lights, dingy little noodle shops and seedy massage parlours open till the wee hours of the morning. Not quite that good but close enough is Saigon’s own Japan Town hemmed in by Thai Van Lung, Le Thanh Ton and Ngo Van Nam streets in District 1. By day it’s a sleepy hollow. By night, it’s an energetic above ground warren of food, drink and entertainment options catering mostly for Japanese clientele who miss the comforts of home. We present The Ghetto. Dozo!

INS IMG_4041 STREET PORTRAIT JAN18 OR — It’s not hard to find a massage or karaoke joint around the clock in the ghetto

INS IMG_4015 STREET PORTRAIT JAN18 OR — Cheeky cosplay establishments abound

INS IMG_4033 STREET PORTRAIT JAN18 OR — The word is already out. We could tell you what’s in there, but then we’d have to kill you

INS IMG_4016 STREET PORTRAIT JAN18 OR — Not just Japanese. The Koreans are moving in too

INS IMG_4045 STREET PORTRAIT JAN18 OR — There are scores of places to hide away from the world in the ghetto

INS IMG_4028 STREET PORTRAIT JAN18 OR — Behind closed doors. It’s common to find young Vietnamese cooks learning the finer art of Japanese cuisine preparation

INS IMG_4024 STREET PORTRAIT JAN18 OR — Look for places offering *nomihodai* — Japanese for free-flow drinks

INS IMG_4043 STREET PORTRAIT JAN18 OR — On watch. Nothing much goes unnoticed in the ghetto

INS IMG_4042 STREET PORTRAIT JAN18 OR — Japanese *kaunta ba —* in English ‘counter bar’ — small night spots where patrons sit at the bar and order directly from hostesses

INS IMG_4035 STREET PORTRAIT JAN18 OR — Late night snack. Takoyaki street-side

INS IMG_4034 STREET PORTRAIT JAN18 OR — Contemplation at the end of another shift

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The Bureau Asia

The Bureau covers stories of interest to people living and travelling in Southeast Asia. We're always on the look out for interesting stories and things. Follow us on Facebook at @thebureauasia & Instagram at @thebureauasia